follow up question I received after the ‘Thinking Man’s Guide To Finding Your
WITB’ series was on the Harrison Shotmaker insert.
The ShotMaker Insert
is a small, lightweight ‘rod’ that a golfer or clubmaker can insert into the
golf shaft. The marketing behind the Insert is that it will help make the ball
fly straighter and give up to 40% more accuracy.
The ShotMaker is meant
mainly for wood shafts because their current models only fit in 0.335 tip
shafts. That’s usually what drivers and fairway woods have for shaft tip
diameters. Cleveland and Taylor Made have drivers that carry 0.350 shaft
diameters. There would be a way to work around that if you put a 0.335 shaft tip
in those 0.350 hosel diameter by adding a shim in order to ‘fill the gap’
between the 0.335 shaft tip and the 0.350 hosel diameter. You could then just
insert the Harrison Shotmaker into that 0.335 shaft tip and go about your
Anyway, the question was in regards to why I got away from the
Harrison ShotMaker insert?
First, I still believe that the Harrison
ShotMaker insert can be a useful tool to many golfers. I know I saw my ball
flight lower a tad with a little less spin. I felt I was more consistent with
the ShotMaker insert as well. Also, there had been reputable customers and
clubmakers online who had shown FlightScope and Trackman data showing lower spin
and a little lower launch with the ShotMaker insert versus no ShotMaker insert
in the same driver.
Here’s where understanding the Shaft Bend Profile
comes into play.
Essentially, all the ShotMaker insert does is stiffen
up the tip section of the shaft. Thus the ball launches a little lower and spins
less. Sounds simple. However, I think it still has some value in the
little while ago Tom Wishon stated that the high priced, popular shafts like the
Diamana models, Matrix, Graphite Design Tour AD-DI tend to have a common shaft
bend profile…fairly stiff in the butt section and stiff in the tip section. In
fact, the Nunchuck shaft has a bit of an underground following and it has an
extremely stiff butt and tip section.
This leads me to believe that the
majority of golfers in the scratch to 15 handicap range tend to play with shafts
with too soft of a tip section. This probably stems from golfers usually going
with a ‘stock shaft’ that they get at the golf store or pro shop. I know many
golfers and clubmakers will steadfastly claim that the stock shafts in most
clubs are not quite the same as the after-market shafts that are the same model.
I also have to question using frequency matching to fit for the shaft
because usually the frequency matching either measures the frequency of the
shaft as a whole or just gets the butt section stiffness. With Shaft Bend
Profiles, it measures the shaft at usually 4 or 5 different locations, from the
butt end to the tip end. So, it’s possible to have 2 different shaft models that
match up on the frequency machine, but react very differently for the golfer
(even if they are the same weight and bend-point). One shaft model may be much
stiffer in the tip section and that will cause a lower launch and lower spin,
despite the frequencies being the same.
What I wind up seeing from
clubfitters is that they usually go at least one flex stiff with graphite
shafts. Instead, if they better understood the shaft bend profiles, they could
get a more accurate fitting for the golfer.
Getting back to the ShotMaker
It can be a great tool for a golfer who likes the feel of their
shaft from a stiffness perspective. This is usually where the stiffness of the
butt-section matters. But, if they have problems controlling their shots, it
could be likely due to the tip section being too soft. So by adding the
ShotMaker insert, that will help them to some degree. For some golfers, it may
help them tremendously. For others, the tip section of the shaft may still be
way too soft for them.
Furthermore, the ShotMaker Insert is also light
as a feather, so it really doesn't affect swingweight or static weight. From my
experience, it will affect MOI by less than 10 kg/cm^2.
Of course, one
may say ‘get a shaft with a stiffer tip section.’
While that sounds fine
and dandy, you will need to have a clubfitter who knows the shaft bend profiles.
Or you will need a fitter with either a Trackman or a later model FlightScope
along with plenty of different shafts so you can look at the launch angles and
spin rates. Then you could be wind up wanting a $300 shaft. Combine that with
the charge for the fitting and then having the shaft installed, a $100 ShotMaker
Insert may not be a bad
The PGA Tour rundown will be up either on Thursday or Friday. Here's my Memorial picks:
Jim Furyk: 25/1
Dustin Johnson: 40/1
KJ Choi: 80/1
Robert Garrigus: 100/1
Scott Piercy: 125/1
Value Pick: Kyle Stanley 150/1
had some questions with regards to the series ‘The Thinking Man’s Guide to
Finding Your WITB.’ I thought I would go over some of them.
long do the leather grips last?
They are supposed to last
‘years.’ From my experience, the pricey high-end grips I’ve found to last a lot
longer than your standard, $5 grip. The Iomics I have still feel good other than
the spot where I place my left thumb wearing down. That does not affect my swing
or feel at all. As far as being able to grip the club, the Iomics are still in
great condition and I’ve had them for over a year. The reason for the GripMaster
USA grips is playing in extremely hot weather conditions, I’m looking for the
best I can find to deal with those conditions.
How come no
Tour pros have their clubs MOI-matched?
Probably because none of
them know about MOI-matching. The OEM’s have no interest in it because there’s
no feasible way for them to implement that into their clubs. We are seeing more
and more clubs using portable weights on their heads. Taylor Made does this with
their irons now. However, the only way to accurately measure the MOI is to have
the machine, which costs about $500.
That being said, we see Tour
golfers and OEM’s trying to do things that are very similar to MOI matching all
of the time.
For instance, when you MOI match a set of irons the
swingweight for those irons will progress at about 0.6 to 0.8 swingweight points
per club. There are plenty of pros who use progressive swingweight in their sets
of irons in the same manner, with the long irons at a lighter swingweight. And
why do Sand Wedges and Lob Wedges almost always have a much higher swingweight
than the rest of the irons?
The answer is that swingweight matching winds
up having the clubs feeling different. For those Tour pros who use progressive
swingweight, they feel that if they kept the swingweight the same, the long
irons would feel too heavy and the short irons too light. MOI fitting and
matching does a more accurate job and eliminates the guesswork of what the Tour
pros already feel.
Why can’t you do
MOI-fitting and matching with non-Wishon clubs?
You CAN do
MOI-fitting and matching with non-Wishon clubs. It’s just that Wishon clubs are
easier to do MOI fitting and matching because their clubheads are lighter in
weight. Thus, all a person has to do is add weight to the clubhead and they’ll
be able to find their optimal MOI and then easily match the MOI of the rest of
the set of irons.
Here’s a few things to be pointed out:
MOI matching irons, we want a tolerance of +/- 5 kg/cm^2
- I personally can
feel a difference in 15 kg/cm^2
- 1-gram of weight added to an iron head will
alter the MOI by about 10 kg/cm^2
So, if a set of iron heads weigh only 3
grams more than a Wishon set of iron heads, that may affect the MOI by about 30
Where I find Wishon clubs to be very beneficial in the MOI
process is with taller golfers who add some extra length to their shafts. That’s
because the extra length of the shafts increases the weight of the club and the
MOI of the club. But, the reason why golfers use extra length with their irons
is to help with their posture at address and so they don’t have to reach for the
Where everything comes into conflict is when a golfer needs that
extra length for their posture and not having to reach for the ball at impact,
but they cannot handle that extra weight and MOI that comes with the extra shaft
If you’re a golfer who doesn’t require any extra shaft length,
then you will likely be able to get fitted and matched for MOI with OEM clubs
(not a guarantee). But for a taller golfer, even adding just a ½-inch to your
golf shafts is going to be problematic unless you have a lighter clubhead. From
there, the best solution would be to find a lighter shaft, but the golfer may
not like that shaft in question.
you favor speed control in putting, why not focus on that with the putter
instead of alignment?
I believe our brain has a good ability to
sense speed on a putt. Geoff Mangum discusses this in his video ‘The Reality of
Putting.’ I think once a golfer has a solid grasp of how to use their brain to
have the right speed, the putter becomes less important in terms of what it can
provide for speed control. I think if you’re struggling with speed control, you
probably do not understand how to use your brain to sense the speed for the
It’s not that you will always have good speed control if you know
how to use your brain to sense the speed for a putt. It does take some practice
if you are going to a green that has a different speed than you are accustomed
to. Also, things like spike marks, pebbles on the green can affect the speed of
a putt and there’s not much you can do about that. Lastly, a poorly struck putt
affects speed as well. I still think you can miss the sweetspot quite frequently
and managed to have pretty good speed control. I think mis-hits affect the line
more than anything.
With putting, I often try to tell myself to not
over-think the mechanics of the stroke. However, if my aim is off, then one has
to make compensations in order to get the putterface pointing at the intended
target. I think that is more difficult to overcome unless you have the right
putter for you.
Wouldn’t hybrids stay on the green just as good
as long irons since hybrids have a higher trajectory?
believe that’s really the case. The term hybrid comes from the fact that is
supposed to be a mix between a fairway wood and an iron (usually a long iron).
Furthermore, the hybrids were really born from the increasing popularity of the
Callaway 7-wood (called the ‘Heaven Wood’) back in the mid to late 90’s. Many
good golfers, including Tour pros, started to use the 7-wood in a similar
fashion to the way we use hybrids now. Eventually other companies saw the market
for the 7-wood and that spawned the hybrid with a different design.
that, the hybrid was supposed to ‘mix the best of both worlds’ of long irons and
fairway woods. Meaning hybrids were supposed to have the 7-wood qualities of
being easy to get up in the air and easier to hit out of the rough and the long
iron qualities of a higher trajectory and being able to stay on the
The hybrids do get up in the air higher, particularly more than a
fairway wood. However, their spin rate is still lower than a 3-iron. And if
you’re a better golfer who shouldn’t have much of an issue getting a 3-iron or
4-iron up in the air, the irons will stick to the green better than the higher
launched hybrid due to the difference in spin rate. The difference today is that
the hybrids are not entirely worse at holding greens like the fairway woods were
of yesteryear. But if you are looking to optimize your Danger Zone play, you’ll
want to start looking at less hybrids and more irons, provided you can hit those
irons reasonably well.
this part I will discuss some of the accessories in the bag.
(IOMIC STICKY 2.3)
feel that the importance of grips are different depending upon the amount the
golfer practices and plays and the climate they practice and play in. If you’re
playing in a cooler climate and you don’t practice or play more than 1-2 times a
week, than any grip that you like should do the trick. I would only recommend
that you clean the grips after use with dish soap and then dry them off with a
towel. Grips will get slick because the oils and sweat in your hands will seep
into the grip and if you leave them in a warm area, like the trunk of your car
or in the garage during the summer, they’ll get super slick. Clean them with a
scrub brush, dry them off with a towel and leave them in a room temperature area
and they will last a lot longer.
For those who play and practice
frequently in cooler climates and are looking for durability and help with the
rain, I would probably prescribe cord grips. Generally, I find the Lamkin cord
grips to be the most durable on the market. But, even the Golf Pride Decade
Compound grips will last if you clean them frequently. The main question becomes
if you like the feel of the grips.
Now, if you play in a hot climate,
like Florida, the Gulf Coast region, South Texas, Arizona, etc, you will likely
have to deal with a lot of perspiration. First, I recommend the following items
to help with perspiration:
- Microfiber towel for drying your hands -
Regular cloth towel to soak in cold water to cool you off. - A bunch of
gloves (rotate them throughout the round or practice session) - Gorilla Gold
or ‘Dry Hands’ solution
I prefer the Gorilla Gold because I don’t have to
wait for it to work like Dry Hands, which takes about 30 seconds. Also, Gorilla
Gold lasts a little longer than Dry Hands and Dry Hands turns your hands into a
white powdery substance.
As far as grips go, I believe that the Iomic
Grips and the GripMaster USA leather grips are the best to deal with the sweat
and humidity. I would rank the GripMaster USA leather grips #1. In fact, I’m
experimenting with a Classic Wrap grip from GripMaster USA
Iomic Grips have a good feel to them. And they do work like they claim in that
the moisture, sweat and water will stay atop of the grip instead of seeping into
the grip. One can simply take a microfiber towel and wipe the sweat or water
right off the grip. However, if your hands are still sweaty, you can have
difficulty gripping the club even though the grip is dry. Furthermore, the area
where I rest my left thumb wears down on the Iomic Grips a decent
I’ve tried one model of the GripMaster USA grips which have a
stitchback design. My friends actually like the feel of the grip, although I
could not quite get used to it. But, we all agreed that when the GripMaster
grips get any moisture on them, they actually get tackier. That’s why I’m going
to experiment with their Classic Wrap, to see if that feels any
As far as MOI and swingweight goes, I’ve found that grips have a
greater effect on swingweight than MOI of the entire club. A 10 gram heavier
grip may change the swingweight by 2 points. But the MOI may change about 20
kg/cm^2 or so. That’s still noticeable enough to throw people a little off.
That’s why when you are fitting for MOI, you should do that next to last (last
would be to put the final touches on the lie angles). You really need to make
sure that you have the grip that you want because that can throw things off a
little if you decide to play a different grip.
Lastly, I prefer to have
grips that I can put on with an air compressor. The reason being is not only is
it easy for me to do, but eventually there will be some grips that start to wear
down quicker because I use those clubs more often. With the air compressor, I
can simply take a grip off my 3-iron that I don’t use a lot and switch that with
my more worn down 7-iron grip. It’s a nice little way to extend the life of your
SHOES (ASICS GEL TOUR LYTE – Size
believe golf shoes are important in the functionality and power in the swing. As
I’ve said before, the ground forces you can use in your golf swing are very
powerful. Imagine hitting a golf ball while standing on a sheet of ice or
hitting a golf ball while standing on grass. It doesn’t take a great imagination
which one you will generate more power from.
Thus, I like to go with a
shoe that has a lot of spikes on it, to help keep my feet on the
Also, the Asics spikes have a traditional screw-in tightening
system. Not only do I prefer that when it comes to removing and installing the
spikes, but the traditional metal spikes have that design. If you don’t have
that design for the spikes, you can’t install metal spikes. My course has a
‘soft spikes preferred’ designation, meaning that they would prefer golfers to
play with soft spikes, but it is not mandatory. Most courses do not have
However, many golfers on the PGA Tour still play with metal spikes
because they feel like they are entirely better than soft spikes. The problem
for me is that most courses and most events do not allow for metal spikes.
However, if I get into a situation where I can use metal spikes, I am the first
one to install them.
Of course, more spikes and metal spikes can
potentially make the shoes harsh on the feet when you are walking a course. And
if you have knee problems, particularly with your forward knee, any spike shoe,
be it metal or soft spike, may put stress on that knee that you cannot handle.
If you’re worried about performance on the course, I would recommend traction
over comfort and looks. But, if you have knee issues, I would consider an
alternative. The Asics Gel Tour Lyte’s go for about $75-$85
BALL (TITLEIST PRO V1X)
think the lower the handicap, the more important the ball is for the golfer. The
golf balls suited for the higher handicapper tend to run in the same style,
designed to max out distance and to avoid curving too much.
handicappers tend to have vastly different swings in a round of golf as well.
One swing they’ll chop down on a driver, the next, they’ll maybe have an upward
attack angle with the driver.
When it comes to the ball, you can figure
the ball for you if you use a Trackman or a FlightScope (latest model) launch
monitor. Here are some key numbers that can help with your
Clubhead Speed Launch Angle Max Height Spin
Rate Spin Loft
With better golfers, I think it’s best to really
understand what type of trajectory and spin rate they produce with their swing.
- High launch, high spin player - High launch, low spin
player - Low launch, low spin player - Low launch, high spin
Spin loft is a calculation that Trackman came up with which is the
difference between the golfer’s attack angle number and their dynamic loft (the
loft the club has at impact).
I would recommend looking at this with the
First, we need to dispel the myth that the steeper the attack
angle will automatically mean that you will generate more spin. You will
generate more spin if the spin loft increases.
For example, let’s say
your stock numbers with a driver are:
0° Dynamic Loft: 10° Spin Loft: 10°
Now, you hit down
more on the ball:
Attack angle: -2° Dynamic Loft:
8° Spin Loft: 10°
Because those Spin Loft numbers are the same
and you’re using the same club and the same clubhead speed, the spin rate will
not increase or not by any significant number.
You have kept the dynamic loft the same, but
are hitting down more. This creates a higher spin loft and the spin rate will be
higher as well.
Generally, the idea is that you want the lowest number
you can possibly get with Spin Loft. I think there is some flaws in that
thinking in certain circumstances. For instance, I would rather produce these
numbers with a driver:
Attack angle: 0° Dynamic Loft:
12° Spin Loft: 12°
Than these numbers:
angle: -4° Dynamic Loft: 6° Spin Loft: 10°
think of spin loft like hitting a ping-pong ball with a ping-pong paddle. If I
want to get backspin on the ball, I will increase the loft of the paddle and hit
down on the ball with a chopping down motion. That would increase the ‘spin
loft’ and thus increase the backspin. If I’m trying to hit the ball with top
spin, I’ll ‘de-loft’ the paddle and swing up on the ball.
For me, I’m
more of a mid-launch, high spin player. Occasionally, when I’m not quite
swinging right, I become more of a low-launch, high spin player. Generally, I’m
looking for a lower spin ball so I can keep the spin rate down and get a little
more roll with the driver along with keeping the ball down into the
I’ve found that the Srixon Z-Star and the Titleist Pro V1x work the
best for me. The Z-Star is a little harder, so I prefer the Pro V1x around the
green. IIRC, Titleist says that there is about a 400 rpm difference between the
Pro V1x and their Pro V1 balls with the driver at 100 mph of clubhead speed. I
know I generate about 3,200 rpms with the driver with a Pro V1 ball. Thus, at
110-113 mph of clubhead speed, I’m guessing I’m at the 2,600-2,800 range with
the Pro V1x. And from my statistical research on Tour, that’s usually the rpm’s
range of the better drivers of the ball on Tour. Yes, you can have too little
spin with the driver.
this part, I’ll discuss the putter. Here’s a look at my putter and its
Edel Golf Columbia 3° Loft 72.5° Lie Angle 34”
Long Round Edel Putter Grip
Most golfers tend to do a very
rudimentary experiment with a putter, be it on a practice green or an indoor
practice area and if they like the looks of the putter and how it feels (and
more importantly, if they make a few putts with it), they tend to buy the putter
and bag it. The problem is that it becomes their only method of finding a putter
and it usually winds up with them purchasing a new putter every year, every
summer or even every month.
As I’ve written in other posts, when it comes
to putting I have a few tenets.
1. I want to hit each putt with the
optimal amount of speed.
2. I want to read the putt accurately as often
as I possibly can.
3. I want to aim the putt at my intended target
4. I want to roll the ball where I have aimed the putterface,
hopefully at that intended target which is hopefully an accurate read of the
That’s it. Nothing else.
I think the putter comes into play
in #1, #3 and #4. For #2, I highly recommend taking a green reading clinic thru
AimPoint Golf (www.aimpointgolf.com)
I want to hit each putt
with the optimal amount of speed.
It’s important to note that
there is a difference between ‘speed’ and ‘distance.’ Most golfers go by Dave
Pelz’s belief that the ‘optimal speed’ is a putt that travels 17” past the cup.
Well, that’s not a ‘speed’, that’s an ‘optimal distance.’
Geoff Mangum (www.puttingzone.com), the optimal speed is about 2-3 ball
revolutions per second as the ball goes into the cup. What does that look like?
Well, the ball should travel at a rate that if it were to go in, it would land
and hit the back plastic of the cup. If it hits the back dirt, that’s a speed a
little faster than optimal. If it lands on the middle of the cup, that is a
speed a little slower than optimal. Remember, speed is a rate an object travels
over time. Distance is a length.
Here’s a great video from Errol Helling
showing putts that have the same speed, but because they are aimed at different
spots, the distance past the cup changes.
Are there other factors
like stroke mechanics and green reading that can factor into optimal speed?
Sure. But in this post we are talking about the putter.
Generally, the 2
features of a putter that affect speed are loft and weight. Here’s the general
rule of thumb on those:
Faster Greens = More weight and less
Slower Greens = Less weight and more loft.
people understand the differences in loft depending upon green speed. I know
Edel offers a putter called the Vari-Loft putter that allows the golfer to alter
the loft of the putter face depending upon the green.
it can only alter the putter face by 1° from the loft you are fitted for. So, if
you are fitted for a 3° loft, then the Vari-Loft model can give the golfer a 2°,
3° or 4° lofted putter.
IMO, you really need to worry more about the loft
as to how it fits to your stroke rather than the greens you play
Edel Golf first fits for loft by seeing how the golfer aims the
putter at address. They not only want the golfer to aim the laser at the cup,
but it has to be a certain distance above the cup. Too low and they are
de-lofting the putter at address. Too much and they are adding loft to the
putter at address. This will require the golfer to make a compensation in their
stroke to hit a good putt.
The other test Edel Golf does is that they do
some distance control and consistency tests with the loft. Too much loft for the
golfer and the ball will skid, like this video shows.
From my experience with
a putter with too much loft, I just could not get the speed consistency I sought
after. Sometimes I would have too much speed or too slow of a speed, even if the
stroke was virtually the same. I’ve talked to others who feel that too much loft
makes the ball go too far offline on mis-hits.
With the weight, the idea
is that if we can properly adjust the weight, we will make it so we can have
optimal speed without having to alter our putting stroke too much. The faster
the greens, the less acceleration and putter head speed we will need to get the
ball to the cup. So, if we add weight, we can take a similar
length putting stroke and still have good speed because the putter
will travel at a slower rate. With faster greens, we need the
putter to travel at a faster rate, so we lighten the putter to allow that to
Edel also offers a Vari-Weight putter model. The Vari-Loft putter
model comes with the Vari-Weight component as well. When all is said and done,
the Vari-Loft model (with the Vari-Weight component) probably allows a golfer to
do the least amount of adjustment in their putting stroke from green to green.
However, if you’re looking for something else, then you would probably
need to find 2 putters that are the same model and have one with a higher loft
and lighter weight (slow greens) and one with a lower loft and more weight (fast
Lastly, Edel Golf fits you for the putter shaft. The idea
Wristy Strokes = stiffer shafts
Strokes = softer shafts
This is again tied in with the acceleration
profile of the putting stroke. I don’t know of any other company that has ever
fit for a putter shaft like Edel does. Personally, I have had a pretty good
touch before I owned an Edel, but the common thing I hear from readers who own
an Edel is how much their speed control has improved with these putters. I think
the combination of getting accurately fitted for the loft, weight and shaft has
helped them tremendously.
I want to aim the putt at my intended
This is the other big component of putters,
There was a study done by some European scientists
(Nilsson & Karlsen) that found that the High-MOI putters and those putters
with all of those wacky alignment lines actually make golfers aim WORSE. But the
real coup for putter makers is that the golfer actually *thinks* they aim them
better. So what I think happens is that the customer eventually junks the putter
and seeks another putter with the wacky alignment design thinking that they aim
those putters better and he just needs to find the right kind of putter to fit
I’m generally a proponent of simple putter designs because I think
golfers aim them better. In fact, according to David Orr’s study on putting
(www.orrgolf.com), 80% of golfers cannot aim straight from only 6-feet away. And
55% of the golfers aim left of the target (for righties).
I believe that
it’s due to a few factors:
1. Most golfers eye dominance is the same as
their arm dominance. So a right handed golfer is likely to be right eye
dominant. Right handed golfers who are right eye dominant, tend to have a left
2. Scotty Cameron model putters have a high amount of loft
(5°), which tends to promote a left aim bias (for righties)
3. The putter
heads today are shaped more to promote a left aim bias. Putters of yesteryear,
like Wilson 8802 would promote more of a right aim bias. So a right handed
golfer with a right eye dominance could use a Wilson 8802 and aim spot-on, time
IMO, there are a lot more putter designs that will promote a
right aim bias. The problem is that they often do not have the popular look to
them and thus golfers continue to use putters that do not fit the way they aim.
Lastly, I usually get a lot of questions about the round putter grip. I
can see to a point where the flat putter grip would be wanted so you don’t twist
the face open or closed. But, I never liked having to wonder if the flat putter
grip was perfectly aligned because if it wasn’t, it could throw me off before I
even made my putter stroke.
I want to roll the ball where I
have aimed the putterface, hopefully at that intended target which is hopefully
an accurate read of the putt.
Again, there are other factors that
come into play with this, but the putter is a factor, too. That’s why the lie
angle is important. It helps the golfer hit the sweetspot more often. The idea
behind the high MOI putters is that if you miss that sweetspot, the putter HEAD
has such a high MOI that it will reduce the twisting on off-center hits. That’s
why they also make putters ‘face balanced.’ My feeling is that you are really
promoting a situation where you can hit a decent putt off a poor stroke instead
of promoting a good stroke. The other problem is that many golfers have
difficulty aiming face balanced putters. So it doesn’t do much good to be able
to prevent twisting on off-center hits when you are aimed inaccurately to begin
I have not tried MOI-matching with the putter. I’ve been told it
doesn’t work, but I’m willing to give it a try in the
LOFT: 52°, 56° and 60° LIE ANGLE:
64° SHAFT: KBS Tour C-Taper LENGTH: 36”, 36”,
35-3/4” Swingweight: D-8, D-8, D-9 MOI: 2,725
How important are wedges? At my level of play I believe they
are more or less, moderately important. My statistical research shows that wedge
play is vastly overrated on the PGA Tour. The idea that Tour golfers ‘get up an
in every time they have a wedge into the green’ is patently false. In reality,
the better Tour player may get up an in with a wedge in their hands (full swing)
about 10-20% of the time. Also, Tour players do not get a lot of approach shots
from the Birdie Zone (75-125 yards) in a round of golf. Some golfers, even the
longer hitters, will not get an attempt from the Birdie Zone all tournament
long. And one of the popular misconceptions is that long players are in the
Birdie Zone more often. The Birdie Zone usually gets most of its attempts from
the shorter players because they wind up in the Birdie Zone more often on
par-5’s than the longer player, like a Bubba Watson, who goes for par-5’s in two
shots about 75% of the time.
As I’ve said in my 2011 Pro Golf Synopsis,
it’s not about labeling a part of the game as irrelevant. If you improve any
part of your game, over time it will affect your scores. It’s about determining
the level of importance and figuring out what you need to improve upon.
With wedges, I’m actually much more concerned with their performance
around the green than on half swings, three quarter swings and full swings.
That’s because statistically, the shots from 0-20 yards from the edge of the
green mean more to your scores than a full swing wedge.
I believe that
the best wedges will help you perform well on the basic shots around the green.
Like the chip, pitch (all trajectories), flop, lob shot (vertical hinge type
shot), bunker blasts, etc. Where one can really start to see an advantage is on
the more difficult shots around the green, like thick rough lies, hardpan, tight
muddy lies, long bunker shots, etc. Those are usually the shots that get golfers
of my skill level and can absolutely kill a good round for a higher handicap
CLUBHEADS (EDEL DRIVER GRIND)
biggest trend in equipment today is customization. Everything from the specs and
components down to engraving,finishes and paint fills. I think the one part of
the game that is still untapped is the wedge market and with companies seeing
some of the success that Scratch Golf and Miura have had, if Edel Golf has
success as well I believe other companies will start to follow suit and come up
with their own customization and fitting for wedges.
starts with finding the right head grind and bounce angle combination for the
golfer. Edel utilizes a fitting cart with all sorts of wedge heads that have
different grind and bounce angle combination. The idea is to find the right
combination of grind and bounce so that the golfer can hit it ‘flush’ without
taking a massive divot. The main idea came from Mike Adams’ research that
golfers would ‘hang back’ on the downswing with wedge shots because if they
didn’t, they would stick the clubhead into the ground. I believe one of the
greatest advantages that this system has is that it allows for better distance
control because my divot pattern and size of the divot is more consistent and
very small. So I don’t have to worry about losing clubhead speed if I catch one
heavy or worry about the launch angle due to the clubhead and turf
For those non-Edel wedge golfers, I will say that growing up
playing golf, bounce was often overlooked and usually the adage was that better
players needed less bounce. I think that if you want to become a better wedge
player, you need to understand bounce better and not be afraid to experiment
with higher bounce angle wedges. A lot of this depends on your swing and the
turf you are playing off of.
When I came to Florida, I was usually told
that a golfer needs less bounce to deal with the thick Bermuda grass. But in the
end, I noticed that to the opposite case. Now, I can hit Edel wedges really well
off of hardpan as this video shows.
If you’re hitting off of
dry, hard ground more often, like you may see in Texas or Arizona, then you may
want to seek a lower bounce angle because some of the higher bounce angle heads,
may not have the grind design to help hit shots well from those type of
LOFT (52°, 56° and 60°)
Each loft is
designed to change how far the golfer can hit the ball. As I have mentioned in
the previous parts, I typically like to
that begs whether or not I ever use the 52° wedge. My feeling is that the 3-iron
is more important to me than the 52° wedge because if I’m ever in a position
where I don’t have a 3-iron and I need it, that will potentially be more
hazardous to my score than needing a 52° wedge when I don’t have it.
It’s MUCH more difficult to get the distance right and still hit an
accurate shot when I have to either step on the gas with a 4-iron or take
something off my hybrid than it is to either choke up on a PW or step on the gas
with a 56° wedge. Also, many times with wedges you’re better off on focusing
more on leaving yourself with an uphill putt than you are trying to have the
right distance into the flag. As I’ve shown with AimPoint, many times a 10 foot
uphill putt can be easier to make than a 5 foot downhill putt.
my philosophy is simple when it comes what to bag, the 3-iron or the 52° wedge.
If I do not believe I will use my 3-iron in a typical round of golf at a certain
curse, I’ll bad the 52° wedge. Secondly, I use the 52° wedge almost exclusively
for full swings.
Many golfers will bag a 54° SW and a 58° SW. I think
those golfers are more concerned with their full swing performance with those
clubs than their shots around the green. I feel that is a bit backwards thinking
because the shots around the green are statically more important to your score.
It is usually easier to de-loft a wedge shot around the green than to hit it
higher and still control the roll. What often happens is good golfers can add
loft to the wedge around the green, but the ball will not roll as much and they
have a difficult time calculating how much roll the ball will have. Thus, I find
the 54° and 58° lofts to be a bit disadvantageous.
However, if you feel
good about your shots around the green and like the yardages you hit them on
full swing, you can have your cake and eat it, too.
I feel that this is mostly about personal
preference. I will say that with Edel’s wedges, those short shots that you are
likely to catch off the toe will come out better because the CoG is moved
further away from the hosel and they extend the grooves out towards the toe, so
you don’t have to worry about those knuckleball shots.
I know many
golfers like all of their wedges the same length as their pitching wedge. I
think that makes some sense from a full swing perspective, but it can mess up
the MOI matching of the wedges. And I think some golfers may have a problem with
the extra length on short shots around the green.
have hit the KBS Tour C-Taper shaft before in a 6-iron and while I liked the
feel and felt it brought the trajectory and spin down, I wound up hitting it too
short. I think that’s because the static weight of the 6-iron was noticeably
more and it made it a little more difficult to swing at a high speed for me.
With the wedges, there is no difference in distance. When you get into
differences in distance, you usually see a greater difference in the longer
clubs like a driver, 3-iron, etc.
I was fitted for the C-Taper shaft
because it brought my trajectory down a touch
There’s a lot that goes
into a wedge shaft. With the grooves rule changes, many golfers have gone to a
higher spinning shaft. However, the counter to it is that it may spin too much
and if you need to hit a lower shot, it may be very difficult to do.
SWINGWEIGHT & MOI (D-8 & D-9 & 2,725
Some clubfitters believe that MOI matching is not
necessary with wedges. I’m actually inclined to agree with them on some level.
This is mainly because wedges are fairly easy to hit on full swings and the rest
of it is just short shots around the green, where it’s difficult to discern the
difference in the feel of the club swinging. However, my feeling is ‘what’s the
worst that can happen?’
One of the beauties of MOI fitting and matching
is that if you don’t like it, you can always remove the weight from the head and
go back to whatever weight the clubs were before they were MOI matched.
thing I have not discussed with the irons is the feel of the irons when the ball
is struck. Years ago, PING did a study showing that almost all golfers could not
distinguish the feel between a forged club and a cast club. IIRC, Jeff Maggert
was the one player who could. From the sounds of it, it appears that Maggert was
the only PGA Tour player that they tested. And from what I’ve read, PING used
the same steel in the test, 304 stainless steel which is not exactly the softest
steel used by golf clubs. Also remember that PING has always been a company that
has made cast irons which saves them plenty of money in costs and that companies
like Mizuno were making waves with their forged irons. So PING certainly had
some stake in the test to see the results work in their favor.
research and experience (and no, the research was not ‘scientific’) there are a
lot of things that go into the feel of an iron. The type of steel used is part
of it. But, if the CoG and the MOI of the entire club does not fit your swing,
you’ll think a softer steel like 1020 carbon steel will feel very harsh. I
experienced that with my Bridgestone J33 blade irons, that have 1020 carbon
steel and I didn’t like the feel of them at all. I also think that the bounce
and grind of the irons plays a giant factor in it as well.
I think if
everything is equal, then the softness of the steel starts to become a factor.
The best feeling irons I’ve hit are usually the vintage Hogan’s (’67 Percussions
with the 2.5” hosel), the Mizuno’s (almost every model), and the Scratch Golf
I would probably rank my Wishon’s up there as far as feel goes. I
feel it’s just slightly noticeable for me, the experienced low handicap player.
I think for the higher handicap players with less experience, they probably
would not notice any difference.
In part IV, I discussed some differences in performance
stemming from a cavity back iron versus a blade design. There are a couple of
more differences I wanted to discuss here.
For starters, I will go with
feel. But, I’m not talking about the ‘softness’ of the feel on a well struck
shot or the ‘harshness’ of the feel on a mis-hit. What I’m talking about is the
ability to use the feel on a strike to decipher how well the ball was
Where I think blades provide a difference is I can really
decipher those shots that where struck decently versus those struck very well
versus those that were flat out flushed and those struck a little below average.
With cavity backs, the feel gets a little ‘murky’ when you are in the decent, to
pretty good to average to slightly below average range. Sure, you can judge on
the ball flight, but I’ve always found that feel plays a bigger role in a
golfers game than ball flight.
Now, if you’re a player like a Kenny Perry
who can pretty much duplicate their swing every day, shot after shot, that
difference in feel may be largely unimportant to you. But, I find that
difference in feel to be a big help in getting me to learn over time. That’s why
I recommend buying a few individual blade irons off of eBay. Get the specs to
fit you (shaft, length, lie angle, MOI, etc) and then use them in practice. If
you want to game cavity backs because you feel more comfortable with them on the
course, go right ahead.
The other factor with blades is that I believe
they are very good on front pin positions.
Hogan once commented that on front pin positions he would hit more club and hit
it very high. Then on back pin positions he would hit less club and hit it
Now, I agree with the first part, but disagree with the second
part. With irons, a lower or higher trajectory can often make you hit the ball
shorter in total distance. That’s why hitting it higher and take 1-more club on
front pin positions makes sense. You use the extra club and the added height on
the ball will reduce the total distance. But, with the back pin positions,
taking less club and hitting it lower may leave you woefully short of the flag.
So with blade irons, provided that a golfer can hit them high enough on
their stock swing, I think they provide an advantage on those front pin
positions because the ability to control the trajectory allows them to hit it
high on command on those front pin positions.
LOFT & LIE
We went over this in part IV as the lofts are more or less
‘standard’ and the lie angles alter a bit due to shaft droop. In the end, I
wound up bending the 8-PW and the 3 & 4-irons.
I already discussed the shaft and their lengths. I plan
on trying out the new Wishon Stepless steel shafts and using Wishon’s recommend
3/8” shaft increments instead of the standard ½” increments. The increments
start off with the 6-iron. Here’s how the new and old club lengths would
When you MOI match your irons, the
swingweight will get progressively heavier. I’ve found that the swingweight gets
about 0.6 to 0.8 swingweight points heavier, per club.
I knew that MOI
matching was good when I first measured the MOI on my set of irons. Before I
measured it, I noticed that I hit my 4-iron the best, but I hit my 3-iron the
worst. I also hit my 7-iron the 2nd best and the 9-iron the 2nd worst. I was
really curious to see what the 3 and 4-iron MOI measurements were. The 7-iron is
the club I practice the most with, so I figured that was why I hit it so well.
Anyway, here were the initial measurements:
As you can see,
the 3-iron and 9-iron had the lightest MOI’s of the bunch. The 4-iron and 7-iron
have the heaviest MOI-weight of the set. Eventually I found that my optimally
fitted MOI was at 2,725 and thus, the 4-iron and 7-iron were the closest to that
The beauty of MOI matching is not only does it noticeably increase
performance, but I didn’t have to worry about my swing changing causing me to
get entirely new clubs. With MOI-matching, if my optimally fitted MOI altered as
my swing changed, I could simply add more weight to the head (hopefully the
swing changes for the better and you are applying more force as you swing).
Here's an updated 3Jack Golf Blog Certified D-Plane Instructor list. I've recently added:
Benard Sheridan (Pennsylvania) Jared Sheffer (Mississippi) Stephan Kostelecky (moved from Oklahoma to Arkansas) Tim Conaway (Florida) Jay Reid (North Carolina)
I've listed the instructors by STATE. Teachers that
instruct outside of the US will be listed by country. You can use the 'find'
function as well by using Ctrl + F, then type in the instructor you are looking
part IV, I will discuss my 3 & 4-irons along with differences in cavity back
vs. muscleback irons and how that may apply to your game along with deciding
whether or not to choose irons over hybrids. First, here’s a short video Tom
Wishon did with regards to the clubhead models I use for my irons, the 555C and
Here’s my 3&4 iron
Wishon 555C (cavity back) 21° and 24° loft 57.5°
and 58.5° lie angle KBS Tour Shaft (stiff) 39-1/4” and 39” long D-3
swingweights 2,725 kg/cm2 MOI
One of the conundrums golfers get
into is whether or not to carry an extra hybrid(s) or to use a long iron. I
think what has happened is that more and more players are gleefully carrying
more hybrids. While I think this is a smart move for many golfers, I think it
also hurts some golfers who use this WITB strategy as well.
that once a golfer starts to get to a 5 handicap or better, they should carry
more irons and less hybrids. Conversely, as their handicap is higher, they need
to carry more hybrids. The main reason for this line of thinking? Spin
Hybrids do not get the ball to stop like a 3-iron or 4-iron can.
Usually what you hope for with a hybrid that you are hitting into a green is
that it will have a high enough trajectory to keep the ball from bouncing and
rolling too far. But, if you land on a green with an iron, it will usually hold
much better than a hybrid.
I think this is important for better players
because spin is crucial for them in Danger Zone approach shots. A simple look on
the PGA Tour shows 2 things:
1. Tour pros are far, far worse from the
rough than they are from the fairway or tee box in the Danger Zone.
The best Danger Zone players typically game a 3 & 4-iron.
thing tells me that while the grass thickness plays a factor in the Danger Zone
as far as the club twisting into impact, the lack of spin is also a big factor
as well. So, if you’re a 5 handicap or better looking to improve your scores,
better Danger Zone play is a great way to substantially make an improvement. You
can probably hit reasonably good shots with a 3 and 4-iron if give the chance,
you just need to practice with them more often to get better with them. Once you
do, I think the results will be better than they would be with hybrids.
For higher handicappers, those Danger Zone shots are ‘trouble shots’ for
them. Those golfers need to have a club that they can advance the ball the best
with. Worrying about the ball spinning enough and holding the green is the least
of their worries.
CLUBHEAD (WISHON 555C)
I often get asked about
the differences in blades vs. cavity backs. My feeling on them is that the
forgiveness aspect of the clubs is actually overblown and
According to 2 or my sources who have worked
in the golf equipment design industry, cavity backs generally hit the ball
further than blades, particularly on mis-hits. But, blades have much better
distance control, which is far more important when it comes to the irons.
I think the main gripe that blades received was that some vintage models
required the utmost precision in order to hit them well. In fact, some vintage
models like the MacGregor Tourney Custom 985 were difficult to miss even if you
missed the sweetspot by a hair.
actually have plenty of Hogan and other MacGregor blades that were no more
difficult to hit than today’s modern blades. And I don’t find the modern blade
more difficult to hit either.
But, the main reason for the cavity backs
in the 3 & 4-irons is I can hit them with a higher trajectory. Blades are
usually more difficult to hit higher because the CoG is usually higher up on the
face, so the ball’s initial launch is lower.
And I agree with my sources,
cavity backs are more difficult to have precise distance control with than
muscle backs. I think the lower CoG on cavity backs is the main culprit as you
can easily hit one too high and it goes much shorter than you expect and then
hit one perfectly and hit it much longer than you expected.
thing about the 3 & 4-irons is that golf courses are typically designed with
the typical yardage on the approach shot in mind.
Meaning, if I’m on a
par-3 where I need to hit a 3 or a 4-iron, the designer will almost never have
any trouble long of the green. Typically designers understand the difficulty of
the shot, so if they put water up by the green, they’ll either put it on only
1-side of the green or put it short of the green. Thus, there is almost never
any trouble long of the green on a par-3 that is this long (roughly 200-230
yards). And on long par-4’s, they usually avoid much trouble up by the green at
all. Therefore, the odds of having a little more juice on a 3 or 4-iron shot and
winding up in big trouble are incredibly slim. Sure, the water could be place in
front of the green, but I think proper club selection and a decent strike of the
ball should prevent me from finding the drink.
LOFT (21° and
The loft is pretty standard for today’s 3 & 4-irons.
While the lofts have become stronger and stronger on irons these days as OEM’s
are making the CoG of the club lower and lower and this helps golfers hit the
irons further, 3&4-irons are typically at 21° and 24°
LIE ANGLE (57.5° AND 58.5°)
I believe in
fitting for the lie angle LAST in the fitting process. For potential customers,
I will give them a demo 6-iron and get the lie angle with that 6-iron to where
they want it. That’s just a starting point.
After we determine the
shafts, lofts, lengths, etc…we can then fit for MOI, finally followed by
tweaking the lie angles.
I do this because the MOI fitting makes the
impact dispersion very, very small. However, the lie angle still has to be on
point, otherwise the impact dispersion will all be towards the toe or the heel.
What I’ve found is that without the MOI fitting, it’s easy to get thrown
off as far as lie angles go because the golfer will not be able to get the
impact dispersion very small. Thus, their shots may be struck favoring the toe,
but they could have some heel strikes that can throw off the clubfitter as to
what they need to do with the lie angles.
I’ve also found that after the
MOI fitting and then matching the MOI of the rest of the set, the impact
dispersion can be on the money, but towards the toe on some clubs and towards
the heel on others. My belief is that it has to do with shaft droop and some
personal characteristics as to how certain golfers swing certain clubs.
For me, I started off with a 60° lie angle for my 5-iron and went in
0.5° increments. Thus, when I originally received my 3 & 4-irons, I started
off with a 59° and 59.5° lie angle for these clubs.
After I fitted my
clubs for MOI and matched the entire set, I found that I hit some clubs off the
toe and some off the heel. I hit the 3 & 4-irons off the heel and found that
the 3-iron had to be bent to 57.5° and the 4-iron to 58.5°. I’ve found this with
several golfers I’ve worked with as well after we MOI-fit and matched the irons.
Hopefully, this will take out some of the confusion as to why golfers hit some
clubs off the toe and others off the heel even though they have been fit for lie
SHAFT (KBS TOUR – STIFF)
of interesting things I’ve found is that the shaft bend profile in the KBS Tour
Stiff versus the KBS Tour X-Stiff is not that vastly different in the tip
section. I believe I hit moderately stiff butt-section with very stiff tip
section shafts the best. The KBS Tour stiff shafts I hit pretty well, but I spin
too much and that causes the ball flight to get up a little too much,
particularly into a wind.
Thus, I’m considering Wishon’s Stepless Steel
shafts which are similar in bend profile, but stiffer in the tip section to help
bring down the spin rate.
LENGTH (39-1/4” & 39”)
Almost all golf companies utilize a ½” increment with iron
shaft lengths. As you will see with the PW, I actually make that about ¼”
shorter than my 9-iron. That’s fairly common in the golf industry as a ½”
difference between the 9-iron and PW often makes the PW feel too short. So my
theory at the time was ‘why not do that with the 3-iron?’ Thus, the ¼” inch
difference between the 3 and 4-irons.
As Tom Wishon has said, you don’t
see any difference in distances between irons (provided everything is the same)
until the shaft lengths are greater than ½” apart. I’ve hit the 3-iron at
39-1/2” and do not see any difference in distance.
Furthermore, if I do
wind up going to the Wishon stepless shafts, I would likely used Wishon’s
prescribed 3/8” shaft increments. This helps make MOI-matching easier and also
makes it easier to have a similar posture at address throughout the set.
The way the 3/8” increments work is you find the 6-iron length you want
and then use 3/8” increments from there.
I have a 3-iron with a Wishon
stepless shaft that is at the 3/8” increments. That puts the length at 39-1/8”
long and have found that I also hit this the same distance as the 39-1/2” 3-iron
(KBS Tour) and the 39-1/4” 3-iron (KBS Tour)
SWINGWEIGHT & MOI (D-3 & 2,725 kg/cm2)
Here’s where I find the MOI matching
the most helpful as 3 and 4-irons are not simple to hit. When I first learned
about MOI matching, I knew that I struck the 4-iron quite well and the 3-iron
poorly. My guess was that the 3-iron’s MOI was off. Typically, when matching the
MOI we want it within 5 kg/cm2 of what we are fitted for.
When I first
measured the MOI of both clubs, the 3-iron was at 2,625 kg/cm2. The 4-iron came
in at 2,702 kg/cm2. So that was a difference of 77 kg/cm2!
A few months
down the road I learned how to best fit for MOI and found that my fitted MOI was
at 2,725 kg/cm2. So, the 4-iron was not too far off. But, the 3-iron was wayyyy
off (100 kg/cm2). That’s when I knew that Wishon was onto something with this
part I we discussed the driver and why we should seek to optimize distance
first, then look for consistency and accuracy. In part II, we discussed the
fairway woods and how we should seek consistency first, then distance and
In part III, I'll discuss the hybrid. Here's my current hybrid
775HS 18° Loft 58° Lie Angle Wishon Gold Tour Hybrid Shaft (Stiff
flex) 40-3/4" long D-4 swingweight 2,765 kg/cm2 MOI
clubs are often referred to as 'rescue' clubs. I think that is a good term to
describe the purpose of hybrids as I usually use the hybrid to advance the ball
at least 220 yards from a difficult lie or a very tight and difficult tee-shot.
There are times when I use it from the fairway into a par-4 or a par-5 and there
are some tee shots on par-3's I will use it off once in a while, but the main
purpose is usually to move it a good ways (220+ yards) from difficult
With that, I believe the hybrid should be your 'best club' in the
bag because you are hitting difficult shots with the hybrid that have to travel
a good ways and have to be accurate and consistent.
hybrids are much like the drivers these days, there's not much of a engineering
advantage between hybrids, regardless of make and model. So a lot of it has to
do with personal preference as far as the looks, CoG location (which is usually
low on all hybrids) and feel.
Where Wishon Golf has some sort of
advantage is with the high-COR head. However, Taylor Made's RBZ hybrid also has
a high-COR head. All this really allows a golfer to do is to hit a club with the
same specs and shafts a little further.
My main goal was to find a
hybrid that I could hit in between my 3-wood (250 yards off the deck) and my
3-iron (215-220 yards).
So that's why I went with the 2-hybrid which I
can hit about 230-245 yards.
The other part was the face
I prefer a hybrid that has a 'little meat on them bones' instead of
those super shallow hybrids. Getting the hybrid up in the air is not an issue
for me, but I believe that the super shallow hybrid heads are more difficult for
me to hit out of the rough as I can go under the ball or the face is more likely
to twist against the grass.
LOFT & LIE ANGLE (18° &
The loft is important because it plays a role in how far you
can hit the club. I was probably hitting a 21° lofted Mizuno Fli-Hi CLK around
220-235 yards, which wasn't enough for my tastes, so the 18° loft in the Wishon
775HS better suited my needs.
The lie angle becomes more important
because we are getting closer to the irons. Fortunately, the 775HS at 58° lie
angle fit me well. But if it didn't, it has a soft steel hosel so the lie angle
can be bent up to 4° upright or flat.
SHAFT (WISHON GOLD TOUR
HYBRID - STIFF FLEX)
Wishon Golf no longer makes the Gold model
shafts as they have been replaced by the Black model shafts.
One of the
main points about this shaft is that it fits me, despite being a stiff flex and
my driver and 3-wood shafts being X-Stiff. That's because the shaft bend
profiles are more suited to my swing despite what the shaft label
Also, from what I've been told a hybrid shaft of the same model is
typically softer in the tip section than a wood shaft of the same model. That's
because the woods have lighter clubhead weights, so they counter that by makign
the tip-section stiffer and heavier. The Wishon 949MC weighs in at 208 grams and
the 775HS 2-hybrid weights in at 238 grams.
The shaft is also a 0.335
tip. That's because the 775HS head has a 0.335 hosel. According to Wishon, who
has the capability to make 0.370 hosels and 0.370 shaft tips (he already has
0.370 iron head hosels and 0.370 shafts), the reason for the 0.335 shaft tip is
that it gets the kick point lower which allows the trajectory to fly higher. I'm
not sure how much merit or a difference that makes, but I did think it was
2-hybrid is about 40-1/2" long. I made mine 40-3/4" to help with my height (6'3"
SWINGWEIGHT & MOI (D-4 & 2,765
One of the features I like about the 775HS is that it has
a small weight port on the sole where the golfer or clubmaker can add a small
weight and simply glue a medallion on. This makes it much easier for me to MOI
match the club to my desired MOI. As we get into the hybrids, the optimal MOI
more closely resembles my irons optimal MOI.
Here's what I have for
fitted MOI's so far:
Driver: 2,825 3-wood:
2,805 Hybrid: 2,765
I generally find hybrids fairly easy to
hit. However, MOI is crucial because I believe that the hybrid should be our
'best club in the bag.' So, I need every advantage I can possibly get to make
sure it's the best club in the bag.
I know very few hybrids have the
ability to change weights like the 775HS, so it's a feature I would look out for
if you're looking for a hybrid.
actually drove the ball pretty well at Sawgrass and improved upon his Adv. Total
Driving rank after the tournament. His putting was fairly stable, just slightly
dipping. However, he had a dramatic fall off in his Short Game Play (shots from
0-20 yards off the green) as he wound up going from 23rd to 114th
in that category in just 1-week. Essentially, he made it very difficult to get
up and down anytime he missed a green.
While his wedge game has come
under fire, it wasn’t a problem at Sawgrass as in one week he jumped from 156th
in the Birdie Zone to 74th. His Safe Zone play was a hair worse than it has
been, but he’s still ranking in the top-20 in Safe Zone play, which is
excellent. He was more or less below average from the Danger Zone at Sawgrass,
which saw his Danger Zone ranking go from 8th to 21st.
I still don’t
think ballstriking is quite the issue for Tiger. And remember, it was roughly 5
weeks ago that he won at Bay Hill in dominating fashion with great ballstriking.
I think the problem Tiger has had is that he can’t quite get everything to gel
at the same time. At Sawgrass, a course he has never played all that well, his
short game around the green really killed his scores. He may have been able to
do more if his Danger Zone play was spot on, but it wasn’t and despite having a
good tournament driving the ball and from the Birdie and Safe Zones, the
combination of awful short game play and a poor tournament from the Danger Zone
I will say that from what I notice, being laid off at the top
of the swing appears to be a ‘death move’ for Tiger. He just cannot work his way
around that move. He has hit it great when he’s either ‘neutral’ or ‘across the
line’, but laid off is very bad for him. Lastly, I think he’s still ‘playing
golf swing’ instead of ‘playing golf’ because he has struggled to get rid of
those 1-2 very poor shots per round.
In all, I think he’s on the right
track because his metrics have improved greatly. I honestly don’t think he’s too
far away from another victory, soon.
Here’s how my picks for the
Steve Stricker: 33/1 – Missed Cut Louis Oosthuizen:
40/1 – Missed Cut Jim Furyk: 40/1 – t-25th Graeme McDowell: 66/1 – Missed
Cut Chad Campbell: 150/1 – Missed Cut
Value Pick: Brendon De
Jonge: 175/1 – t-15th
Here are my Byron Nelson picks:
Carl Pettersson: 28/1 Ryan Palmer: 35/1 Brian Davis: 40/1 Pat Perez: 80/1 Jonas Blixt: 80/1
Value Pick: Martin Flores (200/1)
ADVANCED TOTAL DRIVING
1. Bubba Watson
3. John Rollins
4. Jason Dufner
5. Boo Weekley
7. Tiger Woods
8. Rory McIlroy
9. Hunter Mahan
177. Nick O'Hern
178. Tom Pernice Jr.
180. Billy Hurley III
181. Matt Bettencourt
183. Derek Lamely
184. Stephen Gangluff
185. David Duval
186. Ryuji Imada
PUTTS GAINED (VIA
1. Ben Curtis
2. Bo Van Pelt
3. Bryce Molder
4. David Duval
5. Luke Donald
6. Aaron Baddeley
8. Michael Thompson
9. Brian Gay
10. Martin Flores
177. Patrick Sheehan
178. Chris Kirk
180. Boo Weekley
181. Nick O'Hern
182. Heath Slocum
184. Greg Owen
185. Scott Brown
186. Scott Stallings
SHORT GAME PLAY
1. Steve Stricker
3. Ian Poulter
4. Sean O'Hair
5. Jerry Kelly
6. Greg Owen
7. Patrick Sheehan
8. Jason Dufner
9. Mark Anderson
177. Shaun Micheel
178. Jeff Maggert
180. Michael Thompson
181. Cameron Beckman
183. Gavin Coles
184. Robert Garrigus
186. Gary Woodland
BIRDIE ZONE PLAY (75-125
1. Steve Stricker
3. Padraig Harrington
4. Garth Mulroy
5. Jeff Maggert
7. Brendon de Jonge
8. Nick O'Hern
10. Vaughn Taylor
177. Steve Wheatcroft
179. Jonas Blixt
180. D.J. Trahan
182. Jamie Lovemark
183. Stephen Gangluff
185. Scott Stallings
186. Billy Hurley III
PLAY (125-175 YARDS)
1. Lee Westwood
3. Steve Wheatcroft
4. Angel Cabrera
5. Jeff Maggert
7. Bo Van Pelt
8. Ian Poulter
9. Boo Weekley
177. J.B. Holmes
178. Mark Anderson
180. Derek Lamely
181. Andres Romero
182. Troy Kelly
184. Briny Baird
185. Henrik Stenson
186. Billy Hurley
DANGER ZONE PLAY (175-225 YARDS)
1. Chad Campbell
2. Bubba Watson
3. Louis Oosthuizen
4. Gary Woodland
5. Bo Van Pelt
7. Justin Rose
8. Steve Stricker
9. K.J. Choi
177. Joe Ogilvie
178. Scott Stallings
180. Henrik Stenson
181. Stephen Ames
182. Lee Janzen
Richard H. Lee
184. Steve Wheatcroft
185. Ryuji Imada