Your Step Into the Foray of the Meaningless World of Golf Blogging.
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
Thinking Man's Guide to Finding Your WITB: Part VIII
this part I will discuss some of the accessories in the bag.
(IOMIC STICKY 2.3)
feel that the importance of grips are different depending upon the amount the
golfer practices and plays and the climate they practice and play in. If you’re
playing in a cooler climate and you don’t practice or play more than 1-2 times a
week, than any grip that you like should do the trick. I would only recommend
that you clean the grips after use with dish soap and then dry them off with a
towel. Grips will get slick because the oils and sweat in your hands will seep
into the grip and if you leave them in a warm area, like the trunk of your car
or in the garage during the summer, they’ll get super slick. Clean them with a
scrub brush, dry them off with a towel and leave them in a room temperature area
and they will last a lot longer.
For those who play and practice
frequently in cooler climates and are looking for durability and help with the
rain, I would probably prescribe cord grips. Generally, I find the Lamkin cord
grips to be the most durable on the market. But, even the Golf Pride Decade
Compound grips will last if you clean them frequently. The main question becomes
if you like the feel of the grips.
Now, if you play in a hot climate,
like Florida, the Gulf Coast region, South Texas, Arizona, etc, you will likely
have to deal with a lot of perspiration. First, I recommend the following items
to help with perspiration:
- Microfiber towel for drying your hands -
Regular cloth towel to soak in cold water to cool you off. - A bunch of
gloves (rotate them throughout the round or practice session) - Gorilla Gold
or ‘Dry Hands’ solution
I prefer the Gorilla Gold because I don’t have to
wait for it to work like Dry Hands, which takes about 30 seconds. Also, Gorilla
Gold lasts a little longer than Dry Hands and Dry Hands turns your hands into a
white powdery substance.
As far as grips go, I believe that the Iomic
Grips and the GripMaster USA leather grips are the best to deal with the sweat
and humidity. I would rank the GripMaster USA leather grips #1. In fact, I’m
experimenting with a Classic Wrap grip from GripMaster USA
Iomic Grips have a good feel to them. And they do work like they claim in that
the moisture, sweat and water will stay atop of the grip instead of seeping into
the grip. One can simply take a microfiber towel and wipe the sweat or water
right off the grip. However, if your hands are still sweaty, you can have
difficulty gripping the club even though the grip is dry. Furthermore, the area
where I rest my left thumb wears down on the Iomic Grips a decent
I’ve tried one model of the GripMaster USA grips which have a
stitchback design. My friends actually like the feel of the grip, although I
could not quite get used to it. But, we all agreed that when the GripMaster
grips get any moisture on them, they actually get tackier. That’s why I’m going
to experiment with their Classic Wrap, to see if that feels any
As far as MOI and swingweight goes, I’ve found that grips have a
greater effect on swingweight than MOI of the entire club. A 10 gram heavier
grip may change the swingweight by 2 points. But the MOI may change about 20
kg/cm^2 or so. That’s still noticeable enough to throw people a little off.
That’s why when you are fitting for MOI, you should do that next to last (last
would be to put the final touches on the lie angles). You really need to make
sure that you have the grip that you want because that can throw things off a
little if you decide to play a different grip.
Lastly, I prefer to have
grips that I can put on with an air compressor. The reason being is not only is
it easy for me to do, but eventually there will be some grips that start to wear
down quicker because I use those clubs more often. With the air compressor, I
can simply take a grip off my 3-iron that I don’t use a lot and switch that with
my more worn down 7-iron grip. It’s a nice little way to extend the life of your
SHOES (ASICS GEL TOUR LYTE – Size
believe golf shoes are important in the functionality and power in the swing. As
I’ve said before, the ground forces you can use in your golf swing are very
powerful. Imagine hitting a golf ball while standing on a sheet of ice or
hitting a golf ball while standing on grass. It doesn’t take a great imagination
which one you will generate more power from.
Thus, I like to go with a
shoe that has a lot of spikes on it, to help keep my feet on the
Also, the Asics spikes have a traditional screw-in tightening
system. Not only do I prefer that when it comes to removing and installing the
spikes, but the traditional metal spikes have that design. If you don’t have
that design for the spikes, you can’t install metal spikes. My course has a
‘soft spikes preferred’ designation, meaning that they would prefer golfers to
play with soft spikes, but it is not mandatory. Most courses do not have
However, many golfers on the PGA Tour still play with metal spikes
because they feel like they are entirely better than soft spikes. The problem
for me is that most courses and most events do not allow for metal spikes.
However, if I get into a situation where I can use metal spikes, I am the first
one to install them.
Of course, more spikes and metal spikes can
potentially make the shoes harsh on the feet when you are walking a course. And
if you have knee problems, particularly with your forward knee, any spike shoe,
be it metal or soft spike, may put stress on that knee that you cannot handle.
If you’re worried about performance on the course, I would recommend traction
over comfort and looks. But, if you have knee issues, I would consider an
alternative. The Asics Gel Tour Lyte’s go for about $75-$85
BALL (TITLEIST PRO V1X)
think the lower the handicap, the more important the ball is for the golfer. The
golf balls suited for the higher handicapper tend to run in the same style,
designed to max out distance and to avoid curving too much.
handicappers tend to have vastly different swings in a round of golf as well.
One swing they’ll chop down on a driver, the next, they’ll maybe have an upward
attack angle with the driver.
When it comes to the ball, you can figure
the ball for you if you use a Trackman or a FlightScope (latest model) launch
monitor. Here are some key numbers that can help with your
Clubhead Speed Launch Angle Max Height Spin
Rate Spin Loft
With better golfers, I think it’s best to really
understand what type of trajectory and spin rate they produce with their swing.
- High launch, high spin player - High launch, low spin
player - Low launch, low spin player - Low launch, high spin
Spin loft is a calculation that Trackman came up with which is the
difference between the golfer’s attack angle number and their dynamic loft (the
loft the club has at impact).
I would recommend looking at this with the
First, we need to dispel the myth that the steeper the attack
angle will automatically mean that you will generate more spin. You will
generate more spin if the spin loft increases.
For example, let’s say
your stock numbers with a driver are:
0° Dynamic Loft: 10° Spin Loft: 10°
Now, you hit down
more on the ball:
Attack angle: -2° Dynamic Loft:
8° Spin Loft: 10°
Because those Spin Loft numbers are the same
and you’re using the same club and the same clubhead speed, the spin rate will
not increase or not by any significant number.
You have kept the dynamic loft the same, but
are hitting down more. This creates a higher spin loft and the spin rate will be
higher as well.
Generally, the idea is that you want the lowest number
you can possibly get with Spin Loft. I think there is some flaws in that
thinking in certain circumstances. For instance, I would rather produce these
numbers with a driver:
Attack angle: 0° Dynamic Loft:
12° Spin Loft: 12°
Than these numbers:
angle: -4° Dynamic Loft: 6° Spin Loft: 10°
think of spin loft like hitting a ping-pong ball with a ping-pong paddle. If I
want to get backspin on the ball, I will increase the loft of the paddle and hit
down on the ball with a chopping down motion. That would increase the ‘spin
loft’ and thus increase the backspin. If I’m trying to hit the ball with top
spin, I’ll ‘de-loft’ the paddle and swing up on the ball.
For me, I’m
more of a mid-launch, high spin player. Occasionally, when I’m not quite
swinging right, I become more of a low-launch, high spin player. Generally, I’m
looking for a lower spin ball so I can keep the spin rate down and get a little
more roll with the driver along with keeping the ball down into the
I’ve found that the Srixon Z-Star and the Titleist Pro V1x work the
best for me. The Z-Star is a little harder, so I prefer the Pro V1x around the
green. IIRC, Titleist says that there is about a 400 rpm difference between the
Pro V1x and their Pro V1 balls with the driver at 100 mph of clubhead speed. I
know I generate about 3,200 rpms with the driver with a Pro V1 ball. Thus, at
110-113 mph of clubhead speed, I’m guessing I’m at the 2,600-2,800 range with
the Pro V1x. And from my statistical research on Tour, that’s usually the rpm’s
range of the better drivers of the ball on Tour. Yes, you can have too little
spin with the driver.